The Telfers stayed with us in New York back in October, and were delightful guests. They have a B&B near Akaroa. When we arrived, we were not three minutes in the house when Ian was showing us the beautifully carved walking sticks that he had made for us. The carved heads on top are of Eowyn and Faramir, with a little description of who they are, and various NYC badges. There is also a leather loop to keep around the wrist while walking, and they screw apart in the middle for easy packing. They are, in short, the most wonderful gift we've ever receieved, particularly as we were leaving in two days for a three day hike!

One of the friends of Ian and Ally's daughter Emily was also staying with them, along with her parents, so we also met Jeanine and Garth. We all trooped up back to see the lovely 30-foot waterfall and grotto that they had described to us. It was as beautiful as advertised, and a nice contemplative spot. To reach it there is a sheep trail aloing the side of the hill. The farmer next door keeps sheep, several of which wander freely about the place, keeping the grass short.

We had a gorgeous Akaroa salmon for dinner, with new potatoes and vegetables, a perfect excuse to get out the Crossroads pinot noir. It went very well with dinner, but was maybe too light for Telf, who got out another bottle or two or oakier stuff, including a nice shiraz. As I said at the time, I'd no intention of toting them all over Fijordland, so best they were shared with friends! (Lovely cream-filled brandy-snaps for after, reminding me of the times my mom used to make them at home for special occasions...)

After dinner we watched the Rugby Sevens, playing in Wellington. Tonight was the final, but they'd started the day we left and we'd been seeing the crowds start to build up. Sevens is an abbreviated rugby game, very fast-paced. NZ beat England in the final, so the crowd, predictably, went wild.

Another glorious day -- not a cloud in the sky. In other words, definitely a day for the SPF 60 sunblock...Did some laundry last night in preparation for the Hollyford trek, etc.

In the morning we went into Akaroa. On the way there, we followed Ian and Ally in the SUV up a bloody goat track, that on second thought our crappy Mitsu probably wasn't rated for, but the view from Wainui was spectacular. Then we went down and around the bay to Akaroa. Very exciting hills. Ehem.

The seven of us had a good walk around the shops. There is some really fantastic art going on here. Josh and I bought a beautiful double-length sheepskin at "The Woolshed" and had it shipped straight home. Then we saw some gallery art and went looking for more of the pottery of an artist named Annie Murray. She did the lovely blue-green sugar bowl that Ally had on the table and that we really admired. I'd pretty much fallen in love with the idea of a tea pot in those colors.

The lady who manages the gallery was kind enough to call the artist, as she didn't have a tea pot there, and the long and short of it is that we got one, to be picked up from the artist's house in Christchurch on the 16th when we were on the way back through. Very very happy! We'll be able to show Chas and Lucy the gorgeous wedding gift they got us...

After our triumphant purchase and more strolling through really lovely old streets of cottages, etc., we went off to French Farm Winery anb Cafe for lunch. It was their last day open to the public, only big functions from now on, which is sad. The food was fantastic -- pizzas and garlic bread and chips (there were vegetables on the pizzas, ok?) Shared a bottle of rose with the table, but I thought it was too sweet, as most roses are.

After lunch we went for a short hike along teh side of Tikao Bay on a true goat track, to give Eowyn and Faramir the walking sticks a try. They were excellent, felt good in the hand and were quite helpful on some of the tricky bits giving us an extra balance point.

The view from the point was spectacular. Blue sky, turquoise bay, golden hills. The Conleys were sailing in the Emily, Telf's nice wooden two-seater. We walked back and I went for a dip in the bay. The tide was low and the bay is very shallow quite far out. It was little cold (ocean water, after all) but really refreshing, once I could get up the nerve to get in. Swam over to the slide (on a float) and back.

Josh didn't want to make his asthma/chest cold worse with cold water, so waded in a bit instead. We came back and had a cup of tea and relaxed, prepped for the trek and the loong drive south to Te Anau with directions and advice from Telf.